Alaska/Canada 2017-15: Dawson City
To recap our recent doings:
We left Valdez intending to drive 700 miles to Haines.
First we took the turn-off to the McCarthy Rd, drove 33 miles of paved road to Chitina, decided not to take the 60-mile dirt McCarthy Rd, and camped overnight on the Copper River.
The next night we boondocked on the Little Tok River.
Suddenly we found ourselves suddenly on smooth pavement, which spanned the border for about 15 miles.
With 360-degree vistas, it did feel like we were on top of the world.
About 40 miles from Chicken, we went through Canadian Customs: No, we don’t have any guns, tobacco products, liquor, or gifts for anyone in Canada.
Then we were on to Dawson City through 65 more miles of beauty on a very decent gravel road.
Words don't suffice to describe the Top of the World Highway.
.heic)
We missed the turn to Yukon River Provincial Campground while discussing whether to stay there or cross the Yukon and or take our chances in Dawson City. Less than 100 yards further we found ourselves nearly at the ferry with no U-turn possible—and with no one in front of us. What was there to think about?
We drove onto the free George Black Ferry and crossed the mighty Yukon River —a far cry from the travails the Klondikers of 1898 experienced getting to Dawson City.
A prominent scar on the hills on the north end of Dawson is from the Moosehide Slide, from the Hän meaning "weathered moosehide hanging." The landslide occurred over 1,700 years ago. In the Hän tradition, it occurred during a fight between tribes. The tribe at the top of the hill cut a tree and pushed it over the side, causing a rockslide that killed the tribe at the bottom. The slide has symbolized arrival at Dawson for Klondikers and travelers alike.
We enjoyed a tasty dinner al fresco at Klondike Kate’s. (When we were there in 2022, the restaurant was boarded up; Klondike Kate's Cabins were next to it.)
The next morning, we again wandered the dirt streets and wood sidewalks of the small town whose population rose to 40,000 during the Klondike Gold Rush. Dawson's population today is about 1,400, more in summer when college students and others arrive to work during the tourist season
The Dawson Daily News, first published in 1899, gradually became a weekly, which lasted until 1954.
Yukon College provides courses & training in support of the local economy, along with being a partner in the Yukon School of the Visual Arts.
St Andrew's Presbyteriain Church was built in 1901.
Arthur Harper (no relation that we know of to Marilyn), born in Ireland, was a trader and prospector who arrived in the Klondike in 1887. In 1889, Harper and Joseph Ladue former a partnership. With 1,000 people already in the Klondike by late 1896, the two bought land and staked out the Dawson City townsite. Arthur and his Koyukon wife Jennie's youngest son, Walter, led the first successful ascent of the highest peak of Denali in 1913.
The Keno, operating from 1922 to 1953, was one of many sternwheelers that transported people, supplies, and ore to and from Dawson City during the few months the Yukon River was not frozen.
Jack London spent a year in 1897-'98 in Dawson City living in a log cabin on a creek. The Jack London Museum includes a sod-roofed replica of his cabin, a cache, and a small museum.
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As he did on the bar at the Salty Dawg in Homer, London signed his name on the cabin wall. When the dilapidated cabin was rediscovered in 1965, a replica was made using some of the original logs.
Did I mention that Robert Service, another of Doug's favorite authors, also lived in Dawson City? But we didn't know that until we saw this:
Doug, being a major fan—but who doesn’t the “ Cremation of Sam McGee”?—soon had us parked in front of the two-room cabin on Eighth St that Service rented from 1908 to 1912.
With its wood sidewalks, dirt streets, and lore, Dawson City has an undeniable allure.
We discussed heading north on the all-dirt Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle and ultimately Inuvik, Northwest Territories. It's a 460-mile trek one way. We decided to pass it up, though later conversations enlightened us as to the feasibility of making the drive.
When we realized in the coming days how quickly the drive to Haines would go, we wished we had stayed longer in Dawson City, for it was one of our favorite towns. But there is always two years from now, when we hope to revisit a lot of the area. Plus, in one year, the road to Inuvik will be open all the way to the Arctic Ocean.
Dawson City flora:
.heic)
Fireweed
Alpine Aster.
.heic)
Larkspur (?)
Delphinium
Annual Mallow (?)
The "Kissing Houses." Built on permafrost, when the houses were heated, the ground below began to melt, causing the foundations to shift.
.
And often I'll think of you, empty and black,
Moose antlers nailed over your door:
Oh, if I should perish my ghost will come back
To dwell in you, cabin, once more!
The next night we boondocked on the Little Tok River.
The next morning at breakfast in Tok, about half-way to Haines, we decided to drive 70 miles up the mostly dirt Taylor Hwy to Chicken.
Just before returning to Tok and continuing on to Haines, we spoke with a gentlemen who said the dirt road to Dawson City really was not bad.
So now we were headed the 105 miles to Dawson City. We did say that "plans" for Doug are the equivalent of ideas?
We again found ourselves gaping in awe at the scenery and wildlife around us. The dirt road for the most part was actually better than the AlCan.
About 45 minutes out of Chicken at Jack Wade Junction, aleft turn will take you 65 miles to Eagle, AK, on the Yukon River, and straight ahead is the official start of the Top of the World Highway. The junction along with Jack Wade Creek is named for Jack Anderson and Wade Nelson who discovered gold in the creek.
So now we were headed the 105 miles to Dawson City. We did say that "plans" for Doug are the equivalent of ideas?
Heading out of Chicken, destination Dawson City, Yukon.
Our new route.
We went downhill...
...around curves...
...and uphill.
We again found ourselves gaping in awe at the scenery and wildlife around us. The dirt road for the most part was actually better than the AlCan.
The Walker Fork of Fortynine Mile River flowed far below.
Then we crossed the same river.
All the way from Tok to Dawson we saw hillsides that appeared to have burned.
There were more climbs...
...and curves...
...and we could see the road far ahead.
About 45 minutes out of Chicken at Jack Wade Junction, aleft turn will take you 65 miles to Eagle, AK, on the Yukon River, and straight ahead is the official start of the Top of the World Highway. The junction along with Jack Wade Creek is named for Jack Anderson and Wade Nelson who discovered gold in the creek.
25 miles from Chicken we were at Jack Wade Jct (in 2022, we took the road to Eagle) & 75 miles from Dawson City.
Suddenly we found ourselves suddenly on smooth pavement, which spanned the border for about 15 miles.
All of a sudden, we were driving on pavement!
With 360-degree vistas, it did feel like we were on top of the world.
The vistas! The clouds!
About 40 miles from Chicken, we went through Canadian Customs: No, we don’t have any guns, tobacco products, liquor, or gifts for anyone in Canada.
US/Canada Border crossing on the Top of the World Highway. Not a bad place to work, eh?
Then we were on to Dawson City through 65 more miles of beauty on a very decent gravel road.
Just like that we went from Alaska—from Aleut Alyeska,""Great Land"—to the Yukon—from Gwich'in Yukunah, "Great River."
Alaska is Pacific time. Yukon is Mountain time.
Words don't suffice to describe the Top of the World Highway.
Couple on tandem. And we thought WE were brave to take the dirt road!
.heic)
A solo cyclist coming from Dawson City.
We missed the turn to Yukon River Provincial Campground while discussing whether to stay there or cross the Yukon and or take our chances in Dawson City. Less than 100 yards further we found ourselves nearly at the ferry with no U-turn possible—and with no one in front of us. What was there to think about?
Free ferry crossing the Yukon River from Top of the World Hwy to Dawson City.
We drove onto the free George Black Ferry and crossed the mighty Yukon River —a far cry from the travails the Klondikers of 1898 experienced getting to Dawson City.
We were lucky and found a site in crowded Gold Rush Campground, just a couple of blocks from downtown Dawson.
.heic)
After laundry and showers, we wandered the dirt streets of Dawson City.
.heic)
As always, there were interesting & ingenious vehicles in the campground.
After laundry and showers, we wandered the dirt streets of Dawson City.
Moosehide Slide scar at north end of Dawson.
We enjoyed a tasty dinner al fresco at Klondike Kate’s. (When we were there in 2022, the restaurant was boarded up; Klondike Kate's Cabins were next to it.)
The next morning, we again wandered the dirt streets and wood sidewalks of the small town whose population rose to 40,000 during the Klondike Gold Rush. Dawson's population today is about 1,400, more in summer when college students and others arrive to work during the tourist season
This local wasn't moving for anyone or anything--it was his road.
Some buildings have been refurbished. Others have not.
One of many newspapers during & after the Klondike Gold Rush, & the only one to surviving by 1909.
Yukon College provides courses & training in support of the local economy, along with being a partner in the Yukon School of the Visual Arts.
Dawson is in the traditional territory of the Tr'odëk Hëch'in, hence the bilingual name.
Dawson-style Walmart.
Madonna Inn Dawson style. Wonder if the interior is pink, too...
21st Century Dawson.
Bombay Peggy's is an inn & pub.
St Andrew's has seen better days.
Sod-roofed electrified cabin on banks of the Yukon.
The corner of Third & Harper has seen better days.
Arthur Harper (no relation that we know of to Marilyn), born in Ireland, was a trader and prospector who arrived in the Klondike in 1887. In 1889, Harper and Joseph Ladue former a partnership. With 1,000 people already in the Klondike by late 1896, the two bought land and staked out the Dawson City townsite. Arthur and his Koyukon wife Jennie's youngest son, Walter, led the first successful ascent of the highest peak of Denali in 1913.
Looking north toward the Scar from the other end of town.
The Keno, operating from 1922 to 1953, was one of many sternwheelers that transported people, supplies, and ore to and from Dawson City during the few months the Yukon River was not frozen.
Keno, a sternwheeler on display in Dawson City.
Jack London spent a year in 1897-'98 in Dawson City living in a log cabin on a creek. The Jack London Museum includes a sod-roofed replica of his cabin, a cache, and a small museum.
.heic)
Jack London museum complex.
As he did on the bar at the Salty Dawg in Homer, London signed his name on the cabin wall. When the dilapidated cabin was rediscovered in 1965, a replica was made using some of the original logs.
Doug at Jack London cabin.
Did I mention that Robert Service, another of Doug's favorite authors, also lived in Dawson City? But we didn't know that until we saw this:
Robert Service poem on building in Dawson City.
Doug, being a major fan—but who doesn’t the “ Cremation of Sam McGee”?—soon had us parked in front of the two-room cabin on Eighth St that Service rented from 1908 to 1912.
Robert Service cabin.
Service in front of the cabin.
Front room of Service cabin. Bedroom is in back.
Service's typewriter. He would become know as the Bard of the North.
Note moose antlers over the door.
Doug was entranced as the docent, who wasn't officially on duty, kindly recited Service's "Goodbye, Little Cabin."
With its wood sidewalks, dirt streets, and lore, Dawson City has an undeniable allure.
Downtown Dawson City from the walk along the banks of the Yukon River.
Doug walking on the banks of the Yukon.
We discussed heading north on the all-dirt Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle and ultimately Inuvik, Northwest Territories. It's a 460-mile trek one way. We decided to pass it up, though later conversations enlightened us as to the feasibility of making the drive.
When we realized in the coming days how quickly the drive to Haines would go, we wished we had stayed longer in Dawson City, for it was one of our favorite towns. But there is always two years from now, when we hope to revisit a lot of the area. Plus, in one year, the road to Inuvik will be open all the way to the Arctic Ocean.
Dawson City flora:
.heic)
Fireweed
Alpine Aster.
.heic)
Larkspur (?)
Annual Mallow (?)
The "Kissing Houses." Built on permafrost, when the houses were heated, the ground below began to melt, causing the foundations to shift.
.Dawson City's "Kissing Houses."
And often I'll think of you, empty and black,
Moose antlers nailed over your door:
Oh, if I should perish my ghost will come back
To dwell in you, cabin, once more!
Robert Service, "Goodbye, Little Cabin" (excerpt)
Next up: Whitehorse, Yukon Territory.
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