The Long and Winding Road from California to Washington, Part 10: Still Heading Home - Oregon
November 4-11, 2021
What to say about the Oregon Coast, except it is spectacular? We spent a week working our way south along it. First stop was Astoria across the Columbia River from Washington.
The Astoria Bridge rises high over the Columbia to allow for passage of ships heading out to sea or to ports further inland. Doug will tell you it is his favorite bridge, even when driving over it in the snow.
We checked into nearby Fort Stevens State Park...
In the morning, we drove back to Astoria to stroll around the town. It's one of Doug's favorite places. He's often said he could spend a month there, but he has yet to do so.
Our next stops were out on Clatsop Spit, at the mouth of the Columbia River. This was a great find.
Ships require a pilot when entering and exiting the Columbia due to the large sand bar at its mouth, which has earned it the name "Graveyard of the Pacific."
On the other side of the spit is South Jetty. It's 6.5 miles long, and is one of three jetties built of rubble between 1895 and 1939, to make entering and exiting the Columbia safer for ships. We climbed to the top of the observation tower and the top of the jetty.
Then it was a stop to look at the Peter Iredale again. The 4-masted sailing ship made of steel ran ashore a bit shy of the Columbia River in 1906.
Our final stop before leaving Fort Stevens State Park the next morning was Seafarer's Park.
The park includes a memorial to the very young crew of the Coast Guard lifeboat Triumph, out of Point Adams. They capsized in the gigantic waves of a huge storm while trying to rescue the fishing vessel Mermaid in 1961.
The day took us to Tillamook Creamery for our traditional huge double-scoop ice cream cone.
Miniature Steam Locomotive next to Tillamook Creamery
We drove west and around Cape Meares, the northernmost cape on the Three Capes Scenic Drive.
Up the hill from the lighthouse is the Octopus Tree, a sitka spruce. The actual origins of its unusual shape are unknown, but one story goes that it was sculptured by the Indigenous People in the area centuries ago.
After a brief stop at Oceanside Beach, we went on to Cape Lookout State Park for the night. It'd been a 90-mile day, with just over 2 hours of driving.
We walked under one of Oregon's amazing arched bridges to get from the campground to the beach.
The following day we bypassed Cape Kiwanda, the third loop on the scenic drive. Just before Newport, we drove out to Yaquina Head Lighthouse.
We'd driven 39 miles total for the day when we pulled into Tillicum Beach Campground, another favorite. To our amazement, we scored a site right on the cliffs above the ocean.
The second day we explored the area and then ventured out to dinner at the Drift Inn in Yachats. Our friend JR highly recommended its razor clams...maybe next time.
Our first stop in the morning was Heceta Head Lighthouse. We'd often seen it, but never stopped to walk up to it.
Waiting for Marilyn to head back down....
Just down the road is Florence, another favorite town, with its marina and Old Town under the bridge along the Suislaw River. While Doug got coffee and explored, Marilyn hit the local quilt shop. She bypassed a fabric she thought would look cute for the back of blanket she crocheted for granddaughter Leah. When she met Doug back at the van he insisted they return to the shop. He declared the fabric perfect, and another sale was rung up.
In case you haven't noticed, Marilyn loves lighthouses. So our next stop was Umpqua River Lighthouse, which is surrounded by Coast Guard Housing.
Marilyn has always thought of making a quilt of lighthouses. To that end, she scored at two quilt shops on the trip, where she picked up lighthouse applique patterns.
The concrete and steel bridges include elements of classical, Gothic, Art Deco, and Modern Art.
The construction of 101, with its bridges over rivers and estuaries, replaced the numerous ferries that previously had to be used to travel the coast.
We camped on our last night in Oregon at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings near the state line.
What to say about the Oregon Coast, except it is spectacular? We spent a week working our way south along it. First stop was Astoria across the Columbia River from Washington.
The Astoria Bridge rises high over the Columbia to allow for passage of ships heading out to sea or to ports further inland. Doug will tell you it is his favorite bridge, even when driving over it in the snow.
Astoria Bridge
Marilyn showing off Uncle Robert, aka, Conchita, our Promaster van.
...and found that our campsite came with visitors!
Welcome to Oregon! Elk wandering through our campsite to check us out. Can you blame them? Yes, we gave them a lot of room.
Doug headed to the beach.
Wreck of the Peter Iredale, 5:50 PM.
In the morning, we drove back to Astoria to stroll around the town. It's one of Doug's favorite places. He's often said he could spend a month there, but he has yet to do so.
Entering Astoria. Thanksgiving was coming up.
Astoria Bridge from the waterfront.
Looking waterfront toward the town, which climbs up the hills. Astoria Column rises at the top.
Our next stops were out on Clatsop Spit, at the mouth of the Columbia River. This was a great find.
Columbia River beach access on Clatsop Spit.
Ships require a pilot when entering and exiting the Columbia due to the large sand bar at its mouth, which has earned it the name "Graveyard of the Pacific."
We concluded the cargo was rather large windmill blades.
On the other side of the spit is South Jetty. It's 6.5 miles long, and is one of three jetties built of rubble between 1895 and 1939, to make entering and exiting the Columbia safer for ships. We climbed to the top of the observation tower and the top of the jetty.
Looking out to sea on top of 6.5-mile-long South Jetty.
The King Tide was made even wilder by the wind.
Looking toward shore from atop the jetty.
Wreck of the Peter Iredale.
Our final stop before leaving Fort Stevens State Park the next morning was Seafarer's Park.
We were dry, rather a rare event of late, but to the west were rain and rainbows.
The park includes a memorial to the very young crew of the Coast Guard lifeboat Triumph, out of Point Adams. They capsized in the gigantic waves of a huge storm while trying to rescue the fishing vessel Mermaid in 1961.
Memorial to Coast Guard crew of lifeboat Triumph.
Numerous Coast Guard boats and aircraft were involved in the attemped rescue.
Looking across the Columbia River to Washington.
Lighthouses in purple we either have not visited or did not visit on this trip.
The day took us to Tillamook Creamery for our traditional huge double-scoop ice cream cone.
Miniature Steam Locomotive next to Tillamook CreameryCape Meares
When the Cape Meares Lighthouse was in operation, ships could see the flashes from its Fresnel lens 21 miles out at sea.
Cape Meares Lighthouse
Cape Meares Lighthouse standing sentinel.
Fresnel lens.
Rough seas below the lighthouse.
Cape Meares Lighthouse is the shortest on the Oregon coast.
Up the hill from the lighthouse is the Octopus Tree, a sitka spruce. The actual origins of its unusual shape are unknown, but one story goes that it was sculptured by the Indigenous People in the area centuries ago.
Octopus Tree: 105 feet tall, 46-foot circumference, 250-300 years old.
Oceanside Beach
Did we say we love the Oregon coast? The next day we made a another short hop of 58 miles to Beverly Beach State Park, where we camped in our favorite site. At night the roar of the ocean was rather calming.
Beverly Beach State Park.
Logs were washed all the way up into the stream that runs through the park.
Beverly Beach
Looking back toward the bridge we'd walked under to reach the beach. Oregon's bridges are works of art.
Oregon's beaches are so expansive.
Yaquina Head
Bald eagle surveying his domain on Yaquina Head.
Yaquina Head Lighthouse
Tillicum Beach Campground, Suislaw National Forest.
Tillicum Beach
It's fascinating to watch shorebirds move in sync with each other.
Doug took beautiful shots of the stream's water sculpting the sand.
Rock layers. No wonder the cliffs erode so easily.
How did the mussel shell get there?
Doug taking in the view, such a peaceful spot.
The next morning we had the van all packed and were doing our last look around when we began to question our decision to leave this amazing place. So we unpacked, paid $14 for another night, and smiled. Being self contained, no need for water or electricity, makes things rather easy.
The rabbit along the path to the restrooms was unconcerned by our presence.
Uncle Robert in Yachats, OR.
Beach at Yachats.
Yes, the brakes were on.
Marilyn enjoyed Yachat's pastel beach cottages.
The next morning, nothing like a good stretch before getting back on the road.
Lighthouses in purple we either have not visited or did not visit on this trip.
Our first stop in the morning was Heceta Head Lighthouse. We'd often seen it, but never stopped to walk up to it.
Heceta Head Lighthouse
Heceta Head Lighthouse and service buildings.
Looking across at Heceta Head Lighthouse.
In case you haven't noticed, Marilyn loves lighthouses. So our next stop was Umpqua River Lighthouse, which is surrounded by Coast Guard Housing.
Umqua River Lighthouse
Marilyn has always thought of making a quilt of lighthouses. To that end, she scored at two quilt shops on the trip, where she picked up lighthouse applique patterns.
Applique patterns for 9 of Oregon's 11 lighthouses, plus Cape Henry in Virginia.
In addition to its lighthouses, Oregon has wonderful bridges on 101 that are works of art. Most were designed by Conde McCullough, Oregon's state bridge engineer, from 1919 to 1935.
Cape Creek Bridge.
The concrete and steel bridges include elements of classical, Gothic, Art Deco, and Modern Art.
Rogue River Bridge.
The construction of 101, with its bridges over rivers and estuaries, replaced the numerous ferries that previously had to be used to travel the coast.
Suislaw River Bridge.
In addition to wide beaches, the Oregon coast is punctated by huge rock formations.
South of Port Orford.
Near Gold Beach.
Cranberry bogs South of Bandon—just in time for Thanksgiving!
Our last stop for the day, another favorite place, was Meyers Creek Beach, where the Oregon coast is at its best.
Meyers Creek Beach.
Oregon coast rocks.
We camped on our last night in Oregon at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings near the state line.
Harris Beach State Park.
We'll be back, Oregon!
We still had a week before we needed to be home—lots of time to enjoy the Northern California coast.
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