The Long and Winding Road from California to Washington, Part 7: Oregon & Washington
October 19-21, 2021
We headed north from frosty Tulelake California. Across the border in Klamath Falls, Oregon, we noticed we'd driven 2,733 miles since leaving home 2 weeks before. We could have driven directly from home to Seattle, a distance of 964 miles, in 1 day—or 2, if we wanted to take it easy.
From Klamath Falls, it was 450 miles/8 hours to Seattle via I-5. But what was the hurry? We still weren't due there for 3 days. So instead, we drove 620 miles and enjoyed more amazing country and sights.
First we checked out Sun River, a resort community a little south of Bend where Marilyn's older son and his family vacation each summer. After an hour and a half over coffee, we decided to go back south to LaPine State Park on the Deschutes River for the night. The day's total: 3 hours of driving, 167 miles--perfect!
The Oregon Trunk Railway decided it would also like to have access to the markets of central Oregon and began to build a roadbed on the other side of the Deschutes River canyon. Thus began the competition between the two railroad companies to be the first to the interior. After a couple of years laying track, brawling, and dynamiting each other's camp, the two companies agreed to both use the better line, the Oregon Trunk Railway.
After enjoying the river and the various historical signs, we headed back on our road and reached The Dalles around 3:30. We wanted to claim a campsite first, so we crossed The Dalles Bridge over the Columbia River to Washington, with views of The Dalles Dam and locks to the east.
Native American fishing platforms occupy the banks on the Washington side of the Columbia. Fishing is done with dipnets, which are nets attached to long poles, and hoop nets, nets attached to hoops that are 6 to 8 feet in circumference.
About 12 miles east of the bridge, we reached Avery Recreation Site on the river bank, where Doug had camped in July. The site is reserved for treaty fishing during designated seasons and days, while open to the public at other times. Rather than taking a designated site, we camped at the far end. It was rather easy to decide: camp next to others in the campground or be on the Columbia with no neighbors. Did we add, it was free.
We headed out early the next morning, with Mt St Helens, Mt Ranier, and Seattle on the agenda. We drove west along the Columbia to Carson, where we turned north on National Forest 25.
The further we drove north, the more the road twisted and turned—Wind River and Curly Creek were apt local road names! The pavement was often mostly cracks, potholes, and patches. Marilyn commented that it was like Toad's Wild Ride in The Wind in the Willows. But the fall colors made the drive spectacular.
As we drove on, we wondered if the road into Mt St Helens National Monument would even be open. It'd been closed when Doug was there in July, and it seemed unlikely it would be open in late fall.
It was only 62 miles from Carson to the turnoff to NF 99, the road into Mt St Helens, but it took nearly 2 hours to navigate. It was worth it—the gate was open!
What followed was jaw-dropping: vast expanses of blow-down from the Mt St Helens 1980 eruption, the views of Spirit Lake, the sheer immensity of Mt St Helens.
The 1980 eruption lasted 9 hours and destroyed 230 square miles of forest. It uprooted, blew away, and simply shattered trees up to 7.5 miles away. The lateral blast blew off the top and north side of Mt St Helens, removing 0.67 cubic miles of earth and forming a crater 1.2 miles by 1.8 miles and 2,084 feet deep. The elevation at the bottom of the crater is 6,279 feet. The elevation of Mt St Helens is 8,328 feet. Since the 1980 eruption, there have been several eruptions inside the crater.
At Cedar Creek Viewpoint, we had our first views of Spirit Lake. Until the 1980 eruption, surrounding the lake were Boy Scout, Girl Scout, and YMCA camps. There were also several lodges, one owned by Harry R Truman, who refused to leave and was a victim of the volcano.
What the 1980 eruption did to Spirit Lake is simply astounding. While the blast destroyed the forest and buildings around the lake, the ensuing landslide raised Spirit Lake's surface 200 feet, completing the destruction.
The lake's banks are piled with trees that ended up there after the eruption and 40 years later have not decomposed. Though the lake was polluted by all that the eruption dragged into it, 10 years later it had recovered.
Spirit Lake had originally flowed into the North Toutle River. By 1982, rainfall and snowmelt had raised the level of the lake another 60 feet, and concern mounted that it might breach the landslide and threaten communities downstream. In response, the Army Corps of Engineers bored a tunnel through Harry's Ridge--named after Harry R Truman-- to pipe water out of the lake.
From Cascade Peaks Interpretive Center, we were able to see Mt Adams to the east, Mt Hood to the south, and Mt St Helens, three major volcanoes on the Pacific Rim.
Several things struck us about the returning vegetation as we drove out of Mt St Helens. First was the pine cones standing straight up from branches rather than hanging down.
Next was the horizontal pattern of the branches, as shown in the two following pictures.
Last was that 40-plus years after the 1980 eruption, blown down logs have not decomposed, and trees killed but not blown down still stand.
Despite the devastation from the volcano still evident today, there is plenty of new growth. In fact, within days of the 1980 eruption, elk were again in the area. Their droppings carried the seeds of at least 15 species that took root. One of the first plants to reappear, a year later, was a lupine.
It was almost 4:00 when we headed back down the winding, steep, rough road out of Mt St Helens, but we still hoped to take in Mt Ranier. Unfortunately, the road north was at least as bad as, if not worse than, the roads to Mt St Helens. By the time we reached the entrance to Mt Ranier National Park, it was nearly dark.
Then it began to pour. It was a long 4-hour drive with little visibility at times. We were very glad--especially Doug, who did all of the driving--to finally arrive at our friends' house in Edmonds that night. Doug was quick to tell any who would listen that the 4-hour drive from Rainer to Seattle was the worst drive he has ever encountered. After quick hellos to our friends, we were lights out in the comfort of our van parked in front of their house, knowing that we would see Doug's kids the next day.
We headed north from frosty Tulelake California. Across the border in Klamath Falls, Oregon, we noticed we'd driven 2,733 miles since leaving home 2 weeks before. We could have driven directly from home to Seattle, a distance of 964 miles, in 1 day—or 2, if we wanted to take it easy.
2,733 miles in 2 weeks and more to come.
From Klamath Falls, it was 450 miles/8 hours to Seattle via I-5. But what was the hurry? We still weren't due there for 3 days. So instead, we drove 620 miles and enjoyed more amazing country and sights.
Relaxing over coffee at Sunriver OR
The next morning, we turned back north and followed the Deschutes River through Central Oregon's rolling countryside, past farmland and apple orchards. This time we did not stop in Bend to enjoy their brewpubs but continued down the road. Once Covid has departed we will definitely stop and partake. About an hour north of Bend, enjoying the amazing vistas and open land, we began a steep descent to Maupin on the banks of the Deschutes River. Doug had driven through this area the previous summer and could not wait to share. We saw a turnoff that we thought would take us to the river and soon enjoyed another discovery.
We drove along the river on a narrow road and found the Foreman's House, a remnant of the "Last Great Railroad War." The road we were on turned out to be the original railroad bed of the defunct Deschutes Railroad, for which Maupin was the section headquarters. It was formed in the early 20th century to lay track on one side of the Deschutes canyon south to reach the timber and agricultural markets of central Oregon. The line would be tied to main lines along the Columbia River.
Central Oregon apple orchards
We drove along the river on a narrow road and found the Foreman's House, a remnant of the "Last Great Railroad War." The road we were on turned out to be the original railroad bed of the defunct Deschutes Railroad, for which Maupin was the section headquarters. It was formed in the early 20th century to lay track on one side of the Deschutes canyon south to reach the timber and agricultural markets of central Oregon. The line would be tied to main lines along the Columbia River.
Foreman's house, Deschutes Railroad. The wraparound porch was typical of construction in hot, dry climates.
The Oregon Trunk Railway decided it would also like to have access to the markets of central Oregon and began to build a roadbed on the other side of the Deschutes River canyon. Thus began the competition between the two railroad companies to be the first to the interior. After a couple of years laying track, brawling, and dynamiting each other's camp, the two companies agreed to both use the better line, the Oregon Trunk Railway.
We roused a deer that was sleeping by the sign to the Foreman's House. It retreated to the bank above, keeping an eye on us.
After enjoying the river and the various historical signs, we headed back on our road and reached The Dalles around 3:30. We wanted to claim a campsite first, so we crossed The Dalles Bridge over the Columbia River to Washington, with views of The Dalles Dam and locks to the east.
The Dalles Dam on the Columbia River.
Locks on tThe Dalles Dam.
Native American fishing platforms occupy the banks on the Washington side of the Columbia. Fishing is done with dipnets, which are nets attached to long poles, and hoop nets, nets attached to hoops that are 6 to 8 feet in circumference.
Native fishing grounds on the banks of the Columbia.
About 12 miles east of the bridge, we reached Avery Recreation Site on the river bank, where Doug had camped in July. The site is reserved for treaty fishing during designated seasons and days, while open to the public at other times. Rather than taking a designated site, we camped at the far end. It was rather easy to decide: camp next to others in the campground or be on the Columbia with no neighbors. Did we add, it was free.
Avery Recreation Site, Columbia River, WA. Mt Hood in the background.
Sunrise over the Columbia River at Avery Recreation Site.
Snow-capped Mt Hood, one of the four volcanoes in central Oregon and Washingotn, was visible to the southwest, about 30 miles as the crow flies.
We headed out early the next morning, with Mt St Helens, Mt Ranier, and Seattle on the agenda. We drove west along the Columbia to Carson, where we turned north on National Forest 25.
Interesting driving in formation with a railroad engine.
Driving along the Columbia River on the Washington side.
The further we drove north, the more the road twisted and turned—Wind River and Curly Creek were apt local road names! The pavement was often mostly cracks, potholes, and patches. Marilyn commented that it was like Toad's Wild Ride in The Wind in the Willows. But the fall colors made the drive spectacular.
As we drove on, we wondered if the road into Mt St Helens National Monument would even be open. It'd been closed when Doug was there in July, and it seemed unlikely it would be open in late fall.
We loved all the fall colors on our trip.
It was only 62 miles from Carson to the turnoff to NF 99, the road into Mt St Helens, but it took nearly 2 hours to navigate. It was worth it—the gate was open!
Mt St Helens National Volcanic Monument.
What followed was jaw-dropping: vast expanses of blow-down from the Mt St Helens 1980 eruption, the views of Spirit Lake, the sheer immensity of Mt St Helens.
The top of Mt St Helens came and went in the clouds.
The 1980 eruption lasted 9 hours and destroyed 230 square miles of forest. It uprooted, blew away, and simply shattered trees up to 7.5 miles away. The lateral blast blew off the top and north side of Mt St Helens, removing 0.67 cubic miles of earth and forming a crater 1.2 miles by 1.8 miles and 2,084 feet deep. The elevation at the bottom of the crater is 6,279 feet. The elevation of Mt St Helens is 8,328 feet. Since the 1980 eruption, there have been several eruptions inside the crater.
The lateral blast in 1980 blew off the top and north side of Mt St Helens.
The gold areas are groves of aspen. Mt St Helens with its top in the clouds in the background.
Trees killed by the 1980 eruption standing among new growth.
Trees up to 7.5 miles away from Mt St Helens were uprooted, blown away, or shattered.
At Cedar Creek Viewpoint, we had our first views of Spirit Lake. Until the 1980 eruption, surrounding the lake were Boy Scout, Girl Scout, and YMCA camps. There were also several lodges, one owned by Harry R Truman, who refused to leave and was a victim of the volcano.
What appears to be beach on the lake is actually logs blown down by the force of the 1980 eruption. To our amazement, after 40 years they are still floating.
What the 1980 eruption did to Spirit Lake is simply astounding. While the blast destroyed the forest and buildings around the lake, the ensuing landslide raised Spirit Lake's surface 200 feet, completing the destruction.
Spirit Lake.
The lake's banks are piled with trees that ended up there after the eruption and 40 years later have not decomposed. Though the lake was polluted by all that the eruption dragged into it, 10 years later it had recovered.
Mt St Helens from Windy Ridge, the furthest one can drive into the monument from the east.
Spirit Lake had originally flowed into the North Toutle River. By 1982, rainfall and snowmelt had raised the level of the lake another 60 feet, and concern mounted that it might breach the landslide and threaten communities downstream. In response, the Army Corps of Engineers bored a tunnel through Harry's Ridge--named after Harry R Truman-- to pipe water out of the lake.
Mt St Helens & Spirit Lake
Mt Adams from Cascade Peaks Interpretive Center.
Mt Hood from Cascade Peaks Interpretive Center.
Mt St Helens from Cascade Peaks Interpretive Center.
Several things struck us about the returning vegetation as we drove out of Mt St Helens. First was the pine cones standing straight up from branches rather than hanging down.
Next was the horizontal pattern of the branches, as shown in the two following pictures.
Trees blown down by the 1980 blast have not decomposed.
Trees killed by the 1980 eruption still stand today.
Despite the devastation from the volcano still evident today, there is plenty of new growth. In fact, within days of the 1980 eruption, elk were again in the area. Their droppings carried the seeds of at least 15 species that took root. One of the first plants to reappear, a year later, was a lupine.
Many plants thrive today in the vicinity of Mt St Helens.
It was almost 4:00 when we headed back down the winding, steep, rough road out of Mt St Helens, but we still hoped to take in Mt Ranier. Unfortunately, the road north was at least as bad as, if not worse than, the roads to Mt St Helens. By the time we reached the entrance to Mt Ranier National Park, it was nearly dark.
Then it began to pour. It was a long 4-hour drive with little visibility at times. We were very glad--especially Doug, who did all of the driving--to finally arrive at our friends' house in Edmonds that night. Doug was quick to tell any who would listen that the 4-hour drive from Rainer to Seattle was the worst drive he has ever encountered. After quick hellos to our friends, we were lights out in the comfort of our van parked in front of their house, knowing that we would see Doug's kids the next day.
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