Alaska/Canada 2017-17: Whitehorse to Haines Junction, Haines Highway, & Haines
You may recall that we originally intended to go from Valdez to Haines. Instead we went from Valdez to Chitina to the Little Tok River to Tok to Chicken to Dawson City to Whitehorse. And now we were on our way to Haines.
Soon after leaving Whitehorse we began to get an inkling how spectacular the drive would be. Highway 1, the AlCan, follows the Takhini then Dezadeash Rivers to Haines Junction.
Travel Yukon says it well: "Sitting beneath the Saint Elias, Haines Junction is accustomed to waiting a moment or two before getting noticed after the impressive mountain range does." With the nearby lakes and mountains, it's a center for outdoor activities.
We drove the 150 miles from Haines Junction to Haines between flowing rivers and glaciated mountains under a high blue sky. Rounding each curve there was always more: mountain after mountain, glacier after glacier.
Several hours after leaving Whitehorse, we crested a hill to the astounding, awing sight of an aquamarine fjord set against a backdrop of sculpted peaks heavy with glaciers. It was even more stunning than entering Homer and Seward.
We passed on the packed RV parks on the way into town and stopped at Oceanside RV park on the water. "Full," the sign said, but we've learned to ask, "Any chance of a dry spot for a small van?" "Yes," Gloria responded. Thinking I was pushing my luck, "Any chance we could be on the water?" "Yes," she responded.
And so for 3 days, Old Blue mostly rested, backed up to the edge of a small cliff above the fjord. Meanwhile, those desiring hookups were a good 20 yards back. The city's need to dredge the cove had been the campground's boon, as they used the fill to expand their property.
.heic)
We hadn't left the office when Bernie and Marion, the German couple we'd met in Valdez, pulled in. After a night in the campground, they boondocked, but we ran into them several times.
We were excited to also ran into Denis and Christiane, the Québécois couple we'd met in Whitehorse, on the streets of Haines. They'd taken the ferry from Skagway for the day.
Haines sits on Chilkat Peninsula between Chilkat Inlet and Portage Cove, which is part of Chilkoot Inlet, an arm of Lynn Canal. Lynn Canal is one of the longest, 60 miles, and deepest, 2,000 feet, fjords in the world. Its size allows navigation of cruise and container ships. I thought of learning in elementary school of Norway's fjords—I'd thought that was the only place in the world fjords existed!
It was 89 degrees when we arrived in Haines, freakishly warm but cooler than the 100+ it was at home all summer. Still, unaccustomed to the heat, I napped.
.heic)
Doug went on long walks while we were in Haines, including touring Fort William H Seward. Established to maintain order during the Klondike Gold Rush, it served as a US presence during border disputes with Canada. A group of veterans bought the decommissioned fort after WWII. Some of their goals for a planned community survived: a hotel; regular sea transportation to Skagway and Juneau, which was the beginning of the Alaska Marine Highway; a school for the revival of Native Alaskan arts. A few of the original families still own some of the homes, while others were sold and turned into bed and breakfasts, a hotel, rentals. Doug met a gentleman whose wife's family had six of the homes.
.heic)
Only small cruise ships can dock at Haines, fewer than 1,000 people, resulting in a calm town relatively devoid of tourist traps—though it does have a Hammer Museum.
One day we drove south of Haines out Mud Bay Rd along Chilkat Inlet.
Chilkat State Park is at the end of the road, 7 miles from Haines, but we stopped before we reached it.
Before the park, Mud Bay Rd forks off to the other side of the peninsula and runs along Chilkoot Inlet. At the end of the road we came to gated Viking Cove, an event venue and guest houses. So if you ever have the urge to have a big event in Alaska....
We also drove north of town to Lutak, popular with fishermen and grizzlies fishing. When we arrived, there were indeed fly fishers on one side of the stream that runs from Chilkoot Lake to Lutak Inlet.
On the other side of the stream were a man walking and a female grizzly called Speedy, known to frequent the area.
As Speedy continued to make her way toward the bridge, the ranger—there to protect grizzly from people—yelled at those next to their RVs to get inside. We, on the other hand, did not budge from the bridge.
Eventually, Speedy tired of tourists and fishermen and wandered into the bushes to parts unknown.
Marilyn was happy to discover another reference to the Keystone State, Pennsylvania, where she was born and spent some of her childhood. The Keystone Driller was a steam-powered, portable drilling machine manufactured in Beaver Falls, PA, just down the Ohio River from her home town of Coraopolis. It was used to mine gold in the Chilkat Valley in the early 20th century. It could move between worksites 2 or 5 miles per hour.
Our final day in Haines, we took the Fast Ferry to Skagway, which will be covered in our next post.
Returned from Skagway, we dined out on the pleasant back patio of a restaurant in Haines.
After dinner, we settled in for our final night in Haines.
Next up: Skagway & Dyea.
Soon after leaving Whitehorse we began to get an inkling how spectacular the drive would be. Highway 1, the AlCan, follows the Takhini then Dezadeash Rivers to Haines Junction.
Hwy 1/AlCan/Alaska Hwy.
Red: Our route from Whitehorse to Haines. Blue: Route from Whitehorse to Skagway. Either way, travel between Haines & Skagway is by ferry.
There was construction, and so dust, on the AlCan between Whitehorse & Haines Junction.
St Elias Mountains.
Travel Yukon says it well: "Sitting beneath the Saint Elias, Haines Junction is accustomed to waiting a moment or two before getting noticed after the impressive mountain range does." With the nearby lakes and mountains, it's a center for outdoor activities.
Haines Junction, with the St Elias Mountains as backdrop.
We drove the 150 miles from Haines Junction to Haines between flowing rivers and glaciated mountains under a high blue sky. Rounding each curve there was always more: mountain after mountain, glacier after glacier.
Fireweed, cow parsley, St Elias Mountains.
Haines Hwy/Yukon 3 to Alaska 7.
Glaciers in St Elias Mts along Haines Hwy.
Datlaska Creek & St Elias Mountains.
We stopped several times to soak up our surroundings.
Three Guardsmen Lake.
What to say of such scenery & such a perfect day to appreciate it?
Stopped along Yukon 3.
US Customs.
Klehini River along Haines Hwy/Alaska 7.
Chilkat River.
Chilkat River looking east to the Coast Range.
Several hours after leaving Whitehorse, we crested a hill to the astounding, awing sight of an aquamarine fjord set against a backdrop of sculpted peaks heavy with glaciers. It was even more stunning than entering Homer and Seward.
Our first view of Haines, Lynn Canal, Coast Range.
We passed on the packed RV parks on the way into town and stopped at Oceanside RV park on the water. "Full," the sign said, but we've learned to ask, "Any chance of a dry spot for a small van?" "Yes," Gloria responded. Thinking I was pushing my luck, "Any chance we could be on the water?" "Yes," she responded.
Oceanside RV Park, Haines, on the water.
And so for 3 days, Old Blue mostly rested, backed up to the edge of a small cliff above the fjord. Meanwhile, those desiring hookups were a good 20 yards back. The city's need to dredge the cove had been the campground's boon, as they used the fill to expand their property.
.heic)
Our campsite in Haines.
Our van on left, couple from Germany on right.
We were excited to also ran into Denis and Christiane, the Québécois couple we'd met in Whitehorse, on the streets of Haines. They'd taken the ferry from Skagway for the day.
Haines sits on Chilkat Peninsula between Chilkat Inlet and Portage Cove, which is part of Chilkoot Inlet, an arm of Lynn Canal. Lynn Canal is one of the longest, 60 miles, and deepest, 2,000 feet, fjords in the world. Its size allows navigation of cruise and container ships. I thought of learning in elementary school of Norway's fjords—I'd thought that was the only place in the world fjords existed!
.heic)
Despite glaciers all around, it was 89 degrees in Haines.
.heic)
Fort William H. Seward.
Main St, Haines.
Only small cruise ships can dock at Haines, fewer than 1,000 people, resulting in a calm town relatively devoid of tourist traps—though it does have a Hammer Museum.
Hammer Museum, Haines.
Hammer bike.
Flowers & Dalton City Yarn on right.
Our blue poptop on the water. RVs with hookups were 20 yards back.
Haines & vicinity.
Along Mud Bay Rd.
Chilkat State Park is at the end of the road, 7 miles from Haines, but we stopped before we reached it.
Scenery along Mud Bay Rd on Chilkat Inlet was as stunning as in Haines.
Before the park, Mud Bay Rd forks off to the other side of the peninsula and runs along Chilkoot Inlet. At the end of the road we came to gated Viking Cove, an event venue and guest houses. So if you ever have the urge to have a big event in Alaska....
End of Mud Bay Rd. One alternative to our spot on the water.
We also drove north of town to Lutak, popular with fishermen and grizzlies fishing. When we arrived, there were indeed fly fishers on one side of the stream that runs from Chilkoot Lake to Lutak Inlet.
Fly fishers on stream below Lutak Bridge.
On the other side of the stream were a man walking and a female grizzly called Speedy, known to frequent the area.
Speedy decided the pickings were better on the fishermen's side and swam across.
Once out of the water, Speedy began making her way toward the fishermen, or the picnickers, or those of us up on the bridge.
The fishermen decided it was time to get out of the way, taking their catch with them, but resumed casting after she was past.
As Speedy continued to make her way toward the bridge, the ranger—there to protect grizzly from people—yelled at those next to their RVs to get inside. We, on the other hand, did not budge from the bridge.
Speedy nearly under the bridge we were standing on.
Speedy on the other side of the bridge, all of 15 feet below us.
We leaned over the bridge to get pictures of Speedy's best side. I zoomed in for this picture—I was not next to Speedy....
Eventually, Speedy tired of tourists and fishermen and wandered into the bushes to parts unknown.
Marilyn was happy to discover another reference to the Keystone State, Pennsylvania, where she was born and spent some of her childhood. The Keystone Driller was a steam-powered, portable drilling machine manufactured in Beaver Falls, PA, just down the Ohio River from her home town of Coraopolis. It was used to mine gold in the Chilkat Valley in the early 20th century. It could move between worksites 2 or 5 miles per hour.
The Keystone Driller resembles the model steam engine that Marilyn's Uncle Glenn, who lived on the Ohio River, built & that her mechanical engineer son prizes.
Our final day in Haines, we took the Fast Ferry to Skagway, which will be covered in our next post.
Haines Harbor.
Cruise ship, fewer than 1,000 passengers, Port Chilkoot, Haines.
Cruise ship, up to 4,000-plus passengers, heading from Skagway out Lynn Canal to Gulf of Alaska.
Fast Ferry to Skagway, Ferry Terminal, Haines.
Returned from Skagway, we dined out on the pleasant back patio of a restaurant in Haines.
Restaurant patio.
After dinner, we settled in for our final night in Haines.
View out back of van to Portage Cove, Haines.
Moon over Haines.
Next up: Skagway & Dyea.
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