Alaska/Canada 2017-16: Continuing the Klondike Loop: Dawson City to Whitehorse
We left Dawson City reluctantly and headed for Whitehorse, 330 miles south. We traveled through just a sliver of the Yukon Territory, surrounded by its immensity and beauty.
We arrived in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon early afternoon. It's a modern city, with all the amenities, but is unique in its location on the Yukon River.
It was near Whitehorse that many Klondikers ended their quest for gold. They arrived at Lake Bennett near Caribou Crossing, now Carcross, on foot from Dyea on the Chilkoot Pass or from Skagway on the White Pass Trail. Canada required a years' supplies for entry, as much as 2,000 pounds. Up to 30 trips were required to get the goods up the steep Chilkoot Trail. Horses hauled the goods on the less steep but longer White Pass Trail. It earned the name "Dead Horse Trail" as thousands of animals died in the effort. The White Pass and Yukon Railway from Skagway to Whitehorse, completed in 1900, would have made things easier for the Klondikers.
At Bennett Lake near Caribou Crossing, present day Carcross, the Klondikers built "boats" of anything they could find and headed down the Yukon River. Two sets of rapids near Whitehorse ended the trip for thousands. Those who made it through often met their demise not far downstream at Five Finger Rapids.
Two dams later tamed the Yukon in Whitehorse. The 1923 dam made sternwheeler travel as far as Dawson City possible. The 1958 dam provides hydroelectric power and has a fish ladder for chinook, aka king, salmon running alongside, said to be the longest in the world,at 1,200 feet. The salmon have swum 2,000 miles from the Bering Sea to spawn where they were hatched. Yukon Energy also operates a hatchery for both chinook and freshwater fish.
It was quite warm when we arrived Whitehorse. In town, we could stay at one of the RV parks or for free at Walmart, which was already overrun with RVs of every shape and size. We decided to stay at Robert Service City Campground at the south end of town. They weren't full, so we could get a tent site in the shade rather than parking cheek-by-jowl with other RVs.
Not long after we'd popped the top on the van and relaxed a bit, and curious about a Safari Condo—similar to our Pleasure Way Traverse—in a nearby campsite, I went calling. I found myself at a loss for words, as its occupants, a lovely Canadian couple from the province of Quebec, basically only spoke French.
Marilyn was delighted to find her French isn’t as rusty as she’d feared and really liked the Safari Condo—especially because she could stand up in it even without the poptop raised. Being proud owners, and as the US dollar was worth $1.25 Canadian, Denis and Christiane suggested we order one immediately. As tempting as it was, we realized we would have to forego future trips in order to acquire a new camper.
Our new friends, Christiane & Denis, in front of their Safari Condo.
The next morning, our new friends dropped by our campsite and asked if we would like to dine with them that evening. Marilyn immediately responded, “Oui!” Christiane smiled, raised an eyebrow, and asked, in French, “Do you want to ask Doug?” Marilyn had forgotten I don’t understand French.
We had such a grand evening! It began with their BBQ smoking. Lifting the lid, Denis discovered the plastic grill-cleaning brush melted down inside the burner area. Once the fire was out, I came to the rescue with the Ringer, a handy chainmail scrubber we discovered on our trip last fall to Virginia and have since given to family and friends, including, since coming home, our Québécois friends.
With Denis speaking some English, Christiane a bit more, and Marilyn translating for me—which in her excitement she had to be reminded to do—we enjoyed laughter, a good meal, and, especially, new friends, and we promised to visit each other some day. (Note: We've been trying since 2020 to travel the Canadian Maritimes with Denis and Christiane. We hope that in 2024 we'll finally be able to.)
A path through the campground leads across a pedestrian bridge over the Yukon.
Ranuncula?
Foxtail Barley
Up next: Haines & Skagway
The vast Yukon.
I think what we found to be amazing with the vastness of the Yukon is that when we drive, hike, or backpack in our nearby national parks—Sequoia, Kings Canyon, Yosemite—we know that even though we are surrounded by Giant Sequoias or Redwoods, by towering granite walls and rippling streams, there is always a road within 40 miles in any direction. But in the Yukon Territory, you may be on the only road within hundreds of miles. You are surrounded as far as the eye can see—and well beyond if you should consult a map—by forested mountains, lakes, and prairies.
Almost all of the Yukon Territory is natural and uninhabited. The numbers speak for themselves: 186,000 square miles are home as of mid-2017 to 40,000 people, 31,000 of whom live in Whitehorse.
We stopped often to take in the views. Just before Five Finger Rapids, where many Klondikers met their demise, we noticed Tatchun Creek Provincial Campground. After taking in the rapids, we retraced our steps and found a site in the quiet, forested campground for $9.60—we'd thought the $20 we paid in Alaska already amazing since California state parks are at least $35. In the same campground were the folks we'd met in Chicken who'd recommended we go to Dawson City, so we were able to thank them for the tip.
Leaving Dawson City, driving the Klondike Highway along the Klondike River.
Dawson City-Whitehorse-Haines
Bear in the road. He was in no hurry to move until a passing truck rudely yelled at him.
Gravel Lake.
Stewart Crossing, on the Stewart River.
Almost all of the Yukon Territory is natural and uninhabited. The numbers speak for themselves: 186,000 square miles are home as of mid-2017 to 40,000 people, 31,000 of whom live in Whitehorse.
We stopped for gas at Selkirk Centre in the Selkirk First Nation on the Pelly River.
Construction was frequent. Annual road repair is essential & the time to accomplish it is short.
Did we say that, like Alaska, roads in the Yukon are few and far between? Hm, wonder where this construction worker rides his bike.
Add trucks & construction to an already dusty road & visibility could be rather poor at times.
Everyone's dusty, even the Royal Canadian Mounted Police...on their 21st century mount...
Yukon-style sign for bumps. It seemed redundant.
We stopped often to take in the views. Just before Five Finger Rapids, where many Klondikers met their demise, we noticed Tatchun Creek Provincial Campground. After taking in the rapids, we retraced our steps and found a site in the quiet, forested campground for $9.60—we'd thought the $20 we paid in Alaska already amazing since California state parks are at least $35. In the same campground were the folks we'd met in Chicken who'd recommended we go to Dawson City, so we were able to thank them for the tip.
The next morning brought more wildlife.
Crossing the Yukon at Carmacks we were again reminded of the thousands who joined the stampede for Dawson City but never made it.
George Carmack discovered coal near Five Finger Rapids in 1893. Unsuccessful in that venture, he turned his cabin into a trading post. He is said to be among those who sparked the Klondike Gold Rush by the incidental discovery of gold while salmon fishing in 1896 on Rabbit Creek near Dawson City
Gray fox with white-tipped tail crossing the road.
Crossing the Yukon at Carmacks.
George Carmack discovered coal near Five Finger Rapids in 1893. Unsuccessful in that venture, he turned his cabin into a trading post. He is said to be among those who sparked the Klondike Gold Rush by the incidental discovery of gold while salmon fishing in 1896 on Rabbit Creek near Dawson City
Long & narrow Fox Lake went on and on.
Fox Lake.
Fox Lake is popular with fishermen. Marilyn enjoyed the bilingual signage.
With its lakes, rivers, forested mountains, & plains, the vast Yukon is stunning.
We arrived in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon early afternoon. It's a modern city, with all the amenities, but is unique in its location on the Yukon River.
It was near Whitehorse that many Klondikers ended their quest for gold. They arrived at Lake Bennett near Caribou Crossing, now Carcross, on foot from Dyea on the Chilkoot Pass or from Skagway on the White Pass Trail. Canada required a years' supplies for entry, as much as 2,000 pounds. Up to 30 trips were required to get the goods up the steep Chilkoot Trail. Horses hauled the goods on the less steep but longer White Pass Trail. It earned the name "Dead Horse Trail" as thousands of animals died in the effort. The White Pass and Yukon Railway from Skagway to Whitehorse, completed in 1900, would have made things easier for the Klondikers.
Deck on Yukon River in downtown Whitehorse.
At Bennett Lake near Caribou Crossing, present day Carcross, the Klondikers built "boats" of anything they could find and headed down the Yukon River. Two sets of rapids near Whitehorse ended the trip for thousands. Those who made it through often met their demise not far downstream at Five Finger Rapids.
This was one of the largest rigs we saw on our travels. Still wondering how they get the SMART Car off the back of the truck.
It was quite warm when we arrived Whitehorse. In town, we could stay at one of the RV parks or for free at Walmart, which was already overrun with RVs of every shape and size. We decided to stay at Robert Service City Campground at the south end of town. They weren't full, so we could get a tent site in the shade rather than parking cheek-by-jowl with other RVs.
Not long after we'd popped the top on the van and relaxed a bit, and curious about a Safari Condo—similar to our Pleasure Way Traverse—in a nearby campsite, I went calling. I found myself at a loss for words, as its occupants, a lovely Canadian couple from the province of Quebec, basically only spoke French.
I excused myself, ran to our campsite, and told Marilyn that I had a translating job for her, knowing how much fun she has using her French. I had to pry her away from her blogging, but she was soon conversing in French with Denis and Christiane, and I was left on the sidelines, happily watching them chat away but clueless as to the content of the conversation.
Safari Condo, made in Saint-Nicolas, Quebec, Canada.
Marilyn was delighted to find her French isn’t as rusty as she’d feared and really liked the Safari Condo—especially because she could stand up in it even without the poptop raised. Being proud owners, and as the US dollar was worth $1.25 Canadian, Denis and Christiane suggested we order one immediately. As tempting as it was, we realized we would have to forego future trips in order to acquire a new camper.
The next morning, our new friends dropped by our campsite and asked if we would like to dine with them that evening. Marilyn immediately responded, “Oui!” Christiane smiled, raised an eyebrow, and asked, in French, “Do you want to ask Doug?” Marilyn had forgotten I don’t understand French.
We had such a grand evening! It began with their BBQ smoking. Lifting the lid, Denis discovered the plastic grill-cleaning brush melted down inside the burner area. Once the fire was out, I came to the rescue with the Ringer, a handy chainmail scrubber we discovered on our trip last fall to Virginia and have since given to family and friends, including, since coming home, our Québécois friends.
With Denis speaking some English, Christiane a bit more, and Marilyn translating for me—which in her excitement she had to be reminded to do—we enjoyed laughter, a good meal, and, especially, new friends, and we promised to visit each other some day. (Note: We've been trying since 2020 to travel the Canadian Maritimes with Denis and Christiane. We hope that in 2024 we'll finally be able to.)
A path through the campground leads across a pedestrian bridge over the Yukon.
Robert Service Campground path.
Pedestrian bridge over Yukon.
The Yukon.
Doug on pedestrian bridge.
Dam with fish ladder.
Yukon River, 10:00 PM.
That night lying in bed, we could see stars for the first time since arriving in Alaska 6 weeks earlier—the days were getting shorter.
Doug explored along the river walking into town and back the next morning. We drove in later and discovered Well-Read Books, a great used bookstore, and Bear Paw Quilt Shop, where Marilyn could have gone broke.
When people ask what was our best memory of our trip to Alaska and Western Canada, I quickly respond, “The people we met.” Marilyn will say the constant incredibly beautiful surroundings, but will confess that without the people we met, the trip would have been diminshed. It seems that every day we encountered folks who added to our experience, folks from all parts of the globe who were immersing themselves and being changed by this astounding part of the northern world, just as we were.
Doug cooking breakfast.
Doug explored along the river walking into town and back the next morning. We drove in later and discovered Well-Read Books, a great used bookstore, and Bear Paw Quilt Shop, where Marilyn could have gone broke.
We've been to the start of the 1,000-mile Yukon Quest sled-dog race in Fairbanks & the finish in Whitehorse but don't think we'll do the race.
The "Living Room" at Robert Service Campground. Doug searching their book exchange library.
Yukon River, Whitehorse.
When people ask what was our best memory of our trip to Alaska and Western Canada, I quickly respond, “The people we met.” Marilyn will say the constant incredibly beautiful surroundings, but will confess that without the people we met, the trip would have been diminshed. It seems that every day we encountered folks who added to our experience, folks from all parts of the globe who were immersing themselves and being changed by this astounding part of the northern world, just as we were.
Yukon flora:
Ranuncula?
Foxtail Barley
Northern Yarrow. Butterfly/moth on Northern Yarrow
Narrow Leaved Hawk's Beard.
Up next: Haines & Skagway
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