Southwest Fall 2016-4: Heading South-Southwest toward Home: NM: Salinas Pueblo Missions, Valley of Fires, Carrizozo
Leaving Santa Fe reluctantly, we drove south through sprawling Albuquerque then began wandering southeast toward the Valley of Fires Recreation Area.
Some of our best discoveries are made by wandering, and we were rewarded on this road by signs for Abó Pueblo near Mountainair, New Mexico. So off we went to the ruins. Abó turned out to be one of three sites that comprise the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument.
There were originally nine pueblos in the Salinas Valley, settled ca 1200 to 1300 CE by Anasazi in the north, who had left other regions of the Southwest, and Mogollon in the south, from the northern Chihuahua Desert. The puebloans were drawn to the Salinas Valley by Lake Estancia, whose salt they used for spice and trade.
By the time the Spanish began to arrive in the area in the 1580s, there were perhaps as many as 10,000 inhabitants in the nine pueblos. The remains of Abo mission are surrounded by unexcavated mounds of dirt covering pueblo ruins.
The Spanish built missions and enslaved and tried to convert the Indians, although each site also had at least one kiva, the typical ceremonial room of the Anasazi such as we saw at Chaco Canyon last spring. Kivas were circular underground rooms used by Puebloans for ceremonies and political meetings. They were entered by climbing down a ladder.
The padres were not altruistic, as they were able to finance their missions by the sale of salt to Mexico City. The salt was transported there by mule trains every other year during the life of the missions.
Our camp that night was at Manzano Mountains State Park, at 7,250 feet in the Cibola National Forest, another amazing find. As it was already October, there were few other campers. We were rocked to sleep as the wind buffeted the van.
The next day we toured the other two pueblos: Quarai and Gran Quivira. Quarai had 1,000 rooms and 600 to 700 inhabitants.
In the latter part of the 17th century, due to various calamities, it is thought that the Salinas Valley Indians went to live along the Rio Grande. By 1678, there were no inhabitants at the pueblos.
In the early 19th century, settlers moved into the pueblos. At Quarai they built a tower and church.
.heic)
Excavation of one room of the pueblo revealed the remains of an Anasazi wedge-shaped room of the original pueblo, built ca 1300 CE. It indicates that there had been a kiva that was surrounded by rooms built in concentric circles. It was typical for later people to not only build additions but also to build on top of existing pueblo structures. Here, a rectangular pueblo was built on top of the circular pueblo in the 1500 and 1600s, perhaps by newcomers.
.heic)
.heic)
.heic)
.heic)
From Gran Quivira, we headed further back in history to Valley of Fires. Looking forward to a warm shower, we arrived to find the water turned off. Though it meant another day without showers, the site is too spectacular to be missed.
This BLM campground abuts the Malpais Lava Flow, created 5,000 years ago when Little Black Peak erupted. The resulting lava flow extends for 44 miles, is 4 to 6 miles wide, covers 125 square miles, and is 160 feet thick.
It’s amazing how much life there is in lava, both flora and fauna.
It was fascinating watching the tarantula walk, its legs like rotating cars on a Ferris wheel.
In nearby Carrizozo we enjoyed 12th Street Coffee, which had recently been opened by a lovely barista. Unfortunately, the town, which was a railroad boom town in the early 1900s and today is the county seat, is still struggling. Even grocery stores are rare in this area, with Dollar General sometimes filling that role. Happily, Doug returned to the campground one morning after shopping in Carrizozo and announced that the one grocery store, which had been closed for almost a year, had just reopened.
Abó Pueblo & Mission near Mountainair, New Mexico.
Some of our best discoveries are made by wandering, and we were rewarded on this road by signs for Abó Pueblo near Mountainair, New Mexico. So off we went to the ruins. Abó turned out to be one of three sites that comprise the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument.
There were originally nine pueblos in the Salinas Valley, settled ca 1200 to 1300 CE by Anasazi in the north, who had left other regions of the Southwest, and Mogollon in the south, from the northern Chihuahua Desert. The puebloans were drawn to the Salinas Valley by Lake Estancia, whose salt they used for spice and trade.
Windows & doors were trapazoidal, reminiscent of Inka architecture we'd seen in Peru.
By the time the Spanish began to arrive in the area in the 1580s, there were perhaps as many as 10,000 inhabitants in the nine pueblos. The remains of Abo mission are surrounded by unexcavated mounds of dirt covering pueblo ruins.
Unexcavated mounds at Abó.
The Spanish built missions and enslaved and tried to convert the Indians, although each site also had at least one kiva, the typical ceremonial room of the Anasazi such as we saw at Chaco Canyon last spring. Kivas were circular underground rooms used by Puebloans for ceremonies and political meetings. They were entered by climbing down a ladder.
Kiva at Abó. Slab in front of opening at top & bottom is a deflector.
The padres were not altruistic, as they were able to finance their missions by the sale of salt to Mexico City. The salt was transported there by mule trains every other year during the life of the missions.
Abó Church.
Our camp that night was at Manzano Mountains State Park, at 7,250 feet in the Cibola National Forest, another amazing find. As it was already October, there were few other campers. We were rocked to sleep as the wind buffeted the van.
The next day we toured the other two pueblos: Quarai and Gran Quivira. Quarai had 1,000 rooms and 600 to 700 inhabitants.
Quarai Pueblo & Mission.
In the latter part of the 17th century, due to various calamities, it is thought that the Salinas Valley Indians went to live along the Rio Grande. By 1678, there were no inhabitants at the pueblos.
Quarai church.
In the early 19th century, settlers moved into the pueblos. At Quarai they built a tower and church.
Remains of foundations.
Trapezoidal door & window.
Typical wood beams at top of window.
Gran Quivira is the most impressive ruin, with a large area of excavated pueblo ruins, in addition to the mission. It was a large city consisting of many pueblos and kivas. One pueblo of 226 rooms, referred to as Mound 7, has been fully excavated.
Unexcavated remains.
Looking up to Mound 7.
One of numerous kivas at Gran Quivira.
Another type of kiva.
Remains of first church with kiva next to it.
Excavated area below Mound 7 near remains of first church.
Standing in excavated Gran Quivira Pueblo looking toward second church.
Walls had no mortar.
Rooms of Mound 7—226 in all.
.heic)
Entry to a room.
Excavation of one room of the pueblo revealed the remains of an Anasazi wedge-shaped room of the original pueblo, built ca 1300 CE. It indicates that there had been a kiva that was surrounded by rooms built in concentric circles. It was typical for later people to not only build additions but also to build on top of existing pueblo structures. Here, a rectangular pueblo was built on top of the circular pueblo in the 1500 and 1600s, perhaps by newcomers.
.heic)
It was amazing to literally look into history, to a room built over 700 years ago while standing in a room built 500 years ago.
.heic)
Niche in wall, perhaps for sitting or storage.
.heic)
Windows of second church.
.heic)
Looking into nave. Note massive roof support beam.
Looking out of church toward pueblo.
From Gran Quivira, we headed further back in history to Valley of Fires. Looking forward to a warm shower, we arrived to find the water turned off. Though it meant another day without showers, the site is too spectacular to be missed.
This BLM campground abuts the Malpais Lava Flow, created 5,000 years ago when Little Black Peak erupted. The resulting lava flow extends for 44 miles, is 4 to 6 miles wide, covers 125 square miles, and is 160 feet thick.
Malpais Lava Flow.
We walked Malpais Nature Trail through the lava.
It’s amazing how much life there is in lava, both flora and fauna.
Spoon Plant.
Prickly Pear Cactus.
400-year-old Juniper Tree.
Campground visitor one morning: a tarantula.
It was fascinating watching the tarantula walk, its legs like rotating cars on a Ferris wheel.
He wasn't very interested in us—our campsite just happened to be along his route.
Sunrise. 6:49 AM. 6:55 AM.
6:59 AM. 7:01 AM.
7:12 AM.
Jicarillo & Capitan & Sacramento Mountains surrounding Valley of Fires.
In nearby Carrizozo we enjoyed 12th Street Coffee, which had recently been opened by a lovely barista. Unfortunately, the town, which was a railroad boom town in the early 1900s and today is the county seat, is still struggling. Even grocery stores are rare in this area, with Dollar General sometimes filling that role. Happily, Doug returned to the campground one morning after shopping in Carrizozo and announced that the one grocery store, which had been closed for almost a year, had just reopened.
Carrizozo, New Mexico. Burros had taken over the town.
Efforts were being made to revive the town.
Wonderful building waiting for TLC.
From Carrizozo we headed into Billy the Kid country, starting with Capitan. There we visited Smoky Bear Historic Park and paid our respects to the famous cub.
"The House."
Next we stopped and toured the town of Lincoln. After visiting the museum and getting the lay of the land, we headed for "The House," originally the Murphy-Dolan Store. It later became the county courthouse and jail where Billy the Kid was imprisoned in 1881, in connection with the Lincoln County War. The bullet hole in the wall at the foot of the stairs serves as proof of Billy's successful escape from the hangman, only to be caught and shot by Sheriff Pat Garrett a couple of months later.
After wandering around Lincoln, we enjoyed an informative visit with the owner of Annie's Little Sure Shot Mobile Espresso House, which is both cafe and gift shop.
The next morning, it was getting to be time to wend our way back West.
The next morning, it was getting to be time to wend our way back West.
Comments
Post a Comment
We love hearing from our readers! If you wish your comment not to be "Anonymous," you can sign into your Google account or simply leave your name at the end of your comment. Thanks!