Summer 2016: North Bay Respite
With the opportunity to visit with family, once again enjoy the Northern California coast, and get some work done on the Traverse, we pointed the van north on a Saturday in mid-July.
Sunset over Bodeg Bay & Bodega Head.
Our first stop was my younger son and daughter-in-law’s home just north of San Francisco. Our job was to check out their latest home improvements and spend the night. The cooler Bay Area weather was a welcome relief from 90s and 100s. It’s a dry heat in the San Joaquin Valley where we live, but 100 is still hot!
Sunday morning it was time to get ready for more family. While my son and I caught up, Doug headed out to do errands for the gathering that afternoon at my brother and sister-in-law’s in the East Bay. By 1:30, 25 of 32 family members of had gathered, including the newest, another granddaughter for my sister, just 3 weeks old. Her arrival prompted her 2 aunts and 3 of her 6 cousins to make the trip from New York and Colorado to meet her, which in turn prompted the family gathering, the first in 5 years.
Several happy hours later, we headed our separate ways. For Doug and me that meant the Porto Bodega Marina and RV Park on Bodega Bay Harbor.
It's become a favorite, where we can back up to the water, open the back doors, and enjoy the sounds of water, boats, birds, seals, and the foghorn. Bodega Bay lies along Highway 1 and is noted for a few things beyond Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds, including constant wind and fog. By the way, the majority of The Birds was filmed at inland Bodega; beach scenes were shot at Bodega Bay.
Contrary to our expectations, we awoke the next morning to flawless blue skies. After a quick breakfast thanks to our Jet Boil stove, we headed to nearby Sebastopol and Mike Reed and his amazing GTRV organization. Mike has worked wonders with the Traverse, including installing our solar. That day's task was to attach a table on the side door of the van to use when my passenger seat is turned around.
While the folks at GTRV worked, we hung out at the very eclectic Hardcore Espresso near the busy intersection of Highway 116 and Bloomfield Road.
Behind it are a number of small crafts shops. Though there is some seating inside, the main event is outside under the shade trees, where random seating includes a wood picnic set, various old-fashioned metal chairs, and a circular concrete bench. There's also hanging art, fountains, and trikes for the kids.
If you're ever in Sebastopol and want an interesting stroll, find Florence Avenue. Here you'll find the whimsical junk sculptures of Patrick Amiot and Brigitte Laurent.
It's amazing what they create with so many different pieces of junk. It's a great outing.
When we returned to GTRV, the table was installed, and two cubbyholes had been cut in the doors for storage. Until then, I'd used a round table on collapsible tripod legs that Doug made. It worked, but was not terribly stable and had to be stowed after use. The table Mike and his cabinetmaker, Brian, made hangs permanently on the side door, is a breeze to raise and lower, and is so functional.
On the way back down from the head, we stopped at the Hole in the Head, the remains of PGE's planned nuclear power plant in the 1960s. They were going to build a sizable nuclear reactor on top of the San Andreas Fault. Fortunately that plan never materialized, and Bodega Bay retains its charm.
Leaving Bodega Bay, we followed Highway 1 inland past Sonoma County dairies and sheep ranches and the village of Valley Ford. At one time Valley Ford was a railroad stop enabling ranchers and fishermen to ship their produce to San Francisco. Today it is perhaps best know for Dinucci’s Italian dinners. But from 1972 to 1976, it was best known for Cristo’s Running Fence installation, which ran through the town en route from Cotati to Bodega Bay. The towns were unknown to me in those days, but I am moved even by the photos of Running Fence and wish I had seen it.
A bit beyond Valley Ford, Highway 1 turns south and runs through the small towns of Fallon, Tomales, and Ocean Roar, where it reaches Tomales Bay. After Hamlet, we arrived at Nick’s Cove, where one of numerous oyster bars on the bay serves oysters farmed from the bay. Here it was sunny, if chilly, and we walked out on the pier and watched sail, fishing, and dive boats being pulled out of and put into the bay.
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Then it was past the hamlets of Blakes Landing, McDonald, Marshall, Marconi, Millerton, and Bivalve. So many towns that if you blink you'll miss them, and where did they get their names? The more well-known and somewhat bigger Point Reyes Station lies at the south end of Tomales Bay. Here Sir Frances Drake Boulevard—in reality a narrow two-lane road—peels off across the peninsula, past the hillside resort towns of Inverness and Sea Haven, and arrives 20 winding miles further at the Point Reyes Lighthouse parking lot.
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From the parking lot it's about 1/2 mile and exactly 308 steps down to the lighthouse. We did not do the lighthouse this time, but in the past have enjoyed both that walk and many other wonderful hikes on the peninsula, which is part of Point Reyes National Seashore.
A bit beyond Point Reyes Station is the private Olema Campground. With few weekday campers, we had our choice of sites.
We backtracked to Highway 1, winding along Bolinas Lagoon to Stinson Beach, where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast outside at Breakers Café.
Like all of Highway 1, the section through the hills of Marin County is a winding drive with stunning views. Eventually we joined Highway 101, crossed the always exhilarating Golden Gate Bridge, worked our way through Golden Gate Park and The Avenues, and were again southward-bound to home.
Name that Van
We’ve narrowed the name of the Traverse to three choices. I like Doug’s latest, Sacre Bleu. She is, after all, blue, it honors my Francophileness, and as far as swearing, it's quite mild by French standards. Doug claims to still prefer Ms Agnes, from the 1970 Travis McGee novel series by JD McDonald, but would be easily swayed to call it another of my favorites, Dharma, though he does not know if the van possesses any Cosmic Order.
Let us know what you think!
Sunday morning it was time to get ready for more family. While my son and I caught up, Doug headed out to do errands for the gathering that afternoon at my brother and sister-in-law’s in the East Bay. By 1:30, 25 of 32 family members of had gathered, including the newest, another granddaughter for my sister, just 3 weeks old. Her arrival prompted her 2 aunts and 3 of her 6 cousins to make the trip from New York and Colorado to meet her, which in turn prompted the family gathering, the first in 5 years.
Several happy hours later, we headed our separate ways. For Doug and me that meant the Porto Bodega Marina and RV Park on Bodega Bay Harbor.
Traverse backed up to Bodega Bay Harbor.
It's become a favorite, where we can back up to the water, open the back doors, and enjoy the sounds of water, boats, birds, seals, and the foghorn. Bodega Bay lies along Highway 1 and is noted for a few things beyond Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds, including constant wind and fog. By the way, the majority of The Birds was filmed at inland Bodega; beach scenes were shot at Bodega Bay.
Camped at Porto Bodega.
Contrary to our expectations, we awoke the next morning to flawless blue skies. After a quick breakfast thanks to our Jet Boil stove, we headed to nearby Sebastopol and Mike Reed and his amazing GTRV organization. Mike has worked wonders with the Traverse, including installing our solar. That day's task was to attach a table on the side door of the van to use when my passenger seat is turned around.
Hardcore Espresso
While the folks at GTRV worked, we hung out at the very eclectic Hardcore Espresso near the busy intersection of Highway 116 and Bloomfield Road.
Concrete bench & picnic table at Hardcore Espresso.
Behind it are a number of small crafts shops. Though there is some seating inside, the main event is outside under the shade trees, where random seating includes a wood picnic set, various old-fashioned metal chairs, and a circular concrete bench. There's also hanging art, fountains, and trikes for the kids.
Swing seating at Hardcore Espresso
If you're ever in Sebastopol and want an interesting stroll, find Florence Avenue. Here you'll find the whimsical junk sculptures of Patrick Amiot and Brigitte Laurent.
Batter up!
A farmer's work is never done.
Batman!
Got any grahams & chocolate?
Full count—gonna hit a home run for sure!
Uh-oh!
It's amazing what they create with so many different pieces of junk. It's a great outing.
When we returned to GTRV, the table was installed, and two cubbyholes had been cut in the doors for storage. Until then, I'd used a round table on collapsible tripod legs that Doug made. It worked, but was not terribly stable and had to be stowed after use. The table Mike and his cabinetmaker, Brian, made hangs permanently on the side door, is a breeze to raise and lower, and is so functional.
New table & door storage.
Then it was back to Bodega Bay, stopping en route to enjoy the views.
The next morning dawned with the usual summer fog. We drove out to Bodega Head, a great place to gaze at the ocean and watch for whales. We took the 2-mile loop trail takes off from the parking lot and winds around the head.
At the top is a memorial to Bodega Bay's fishermen lost at sea. It's built from concrete blocks in the shape of a boat pointing out to sea.
Trail around Bodega Head.
At the top is a memorial to Bodega Bay's fishermen lost at sea. It's built from concrete blocks in the shape of a boat pointing out to sea.
Fishermen's Memorial, Bodega Head.
On the way back down from the head, we stopped at the Hole in the Head, the remains of PGE's planned nuclear power plant in the 1960s. They were going to build a sizable nuclear reactor on top of the San Andreas Fault. Fortunately that plan never materialized, and Bodega Bay retains its charm.
Leaving Bodega Bay, we followed Highway 1 inland past Sonoma County dairies and sheep ranches and the village of Valley Ford. At one time Valley Ford was a railroad stop enabling ranchers and fishermen to ship their produce to San Francisco. Today it is perhaps best know for Dinucci’s Italian dinners. But from 1972 to 1976, it was best known for Cristo’s Running Fence installation, which ran through the town en route from Cotati to Bodega Bay. The towns were unknown to me in those days, but I am moved even by the photos of Running Fence and wish I had seen it.
A bit beyond Valley Ford, Highway 1 turns south and runs through the small towns of Fallon, Tomales, and Ocean Roar, where it reaches Tomales Bay. After Hamlet, we arrived at Nick’s Cove, where one of numerous oyster bars on the bay serves oysters farmed from the bay. Here it was sunny, if chilly, and we walked out on the pier and watched sail, fishing, and dive boats being pulled out of and put into the bay.
.jpeg)
Then it was past the hamlets of Blakes Landing, McDonald, Marshall, Marconi, Millerton, and Bivalve. So many towns that if you blink you'll miss them, and where did they get their names? The more well-known and somewhat bigger Point Reyes Station lies at the south end of Tomales Bay. Here Sir Frances Drake Boulevard—in reality a narrow two-lane road—peels off across the peninsula, past the hillside resort towns of Inverness and Sea Haven, and arrives 20 winding miles further at the Point Reyes Lighthouse parking lot.
.jpeg)
Point Reyes Lighthouse, 308 steps down—& back up (photo NPS).
From the parking lot it's about 1/2 mile and exactly 308 steps down to the lighthouse. We did not do the lighthouse this time, but in the past have enjoyed both that walk and many other wonderful hikes on the peninsula, which is part of Point Reyes National Seashore.
A bit beyond Point Reyes Station is the private Olema Campground. With few weekday campers, we had our choice of sites.
Doug & deer relaxing at Olema Campground.
The deer were not overly concerned about we humans.
We dined that evening at the Station House Café in Point Reyes Station. The puffy rolls were a yummy preamble to Doug’s halibut and my vegetable fettucine, both topped with one of the delicious local cheeses.
The final morning of our trip, we continued south on 1, splitting off at the Olema-Bolinas Road to Bolinas on Bolinas Bay. The town sees few weekday visitors, other than surfers, so the café where we’d hoped to have breakfast was closed.
The final morning of our trip, we continued south on 1, splitting off at the Olema-Bolinas Road to Bolinas on Bolinas Bay. The town sees few weekday visitors, other than surfers, so the café where we’d hoped to have breakfast was closed.
Bolinas Lagoon (left) & Bay.
We backtracked to Highway 1, winding along Bolinas Lagoon to Stinson Beach, where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast outside at Breakers Café.
Stinson Beach (Photo NPS).
Like all of Highway 1, the section through the hills of Marin County is a winding drive with stunning views. Eventually we joined Highway 101, crossed the always exhilarating Golden Gate Bridge, worked our way through Golden Gate Park and The Avenues, and were again southward-bound to home.
Name that Van
We’ve narrowed the name of the Traverse to three choices. I like Doug’s latest, Sacre Bleu. She is, after all, blue, it honors my Francophileness, and as far as swearing, it's quite mild by French standards. Doug claims to still prefer Ms Agnes, from the 1970 Travis McGee novel series by JD McDonald, but would be easily swayed to call it another of my favorites, Dharma, though he does not know if the van possesses any Cosmic Order.
Let us know what you think!
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