2014-3: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Sonoran Desert, Arizona
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument has turned into a grand destination. Part of the Sonoran Desert, it is located in southern Arizona near Ajo and southwest of Tucson, along the US/Mexico border. Though I had been informed that it was in a lawless part of southern Arizona, I found it anything but.
The National Park Service updates safety information regularly on the park website. NPS also has information about the steel border fence's impact on safety and environmental preservation in the monument. I urge you to read these articles for more information. Though I felt extremely safe, the final decision is of course up to you. But to entice you, read on about Organ Pipe.
The namesake of the park is the organ pipe cactus, found only in the Sonoran Desert. Unlike its famous neighbor the saguaro, which grows vertically from one stem, the organ pipe has many curving stems, each less than 20 inches in circumference, that originate from its base and reach heights of up to 20 feet. The story is that an early visitor believed it to resemble the large organ pipes of an old-fashioned pipe organ, hence its name.
I arrive at the Kris Eggle Visitor Information Center before it opens and join three Border Patrol trucks in the parking lot. The center is named after Ranger Kris Eggle, who in August 2002 was shot and killed by a suspected drug smuggler during a Border Patrol operation.
Once in the center—and I must admit to feeling a bit paranoid—I ask the docent, Jimmy, about danger in the park. He sighs and says, “I wish folks wouldn't say that,” and goes on to say that with the added Border Patrol presence coupled with the new fence, he does not feel any threat. He agrees that there are Mexican citizens who use the park, as they do the rest of our border with Mexico, as a place of entry, but that they have no desire to be seen.
Jimmy shows me an impressive 3-D map of the park and explains recommended drives and hikes. He invites me to watch an informative 15-minute video that explains life in the park, coupled with some impressive pictures of the area, and meets me after to answer any questions. Yes, it's a slow day at the center, yet he has gone out of his way to ensure to answer all questions. I am soon ready to get outside, find a trail, and check out my new ACL (my third on this knee, but that is another story).
Promising to return the Ajo Mountain Loop pamphlet, I am off to enjoy a 21-mile, mostly one-way, washboard road. Once on the dirt road I set my odometer to zero to allow me to locate each information station and am off to enjoy the route, which I am pleased to say shows me that the MRV can travel off the pavement just like the VW bus.
Though mostly dirt, it is not an unpleasant road—all you have to do is keep your speed down. Driving alone without the aid of my trusty partner to read and point out things of interest, I soon realize that the road is wide enough that I can pull over anytime and check out the scenery.
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Stopping at mile #11, I find an ample-sized parking lot for the Estes Canyon-Bull Pasture trailhead.
I fill my water bottle; make sure I have sun screen, hiking poles, hat, and first aid kit; lock the MRV; and begin an enjoyable 4.1-mile loop. Now, it is usually Marilyn who lags behind taking pictures, but this time I find myself pulling out the camera (actually, my iPhone) and snapping away. I am rewarded with some cacti and succulents in bloom (flash: the ocotillo is not a cactus but a succulent).
On this trail I recommend walking poles, for though the trail is well designed and the elevation gain is comfortable, there are many loose rocks just waiting to help you twist an ankle. The trail is easy to follow as it slowly climbs up the ridge. Soon the town of Luke, which sits 6 miles south on the border, begins to take shape, and when I can see to the west, I try to find the MRV. Soon I find myself alternating between trying to guess where the trail is going and stopping to enjoy the impressive vistas.
At mile 1.7, the trail leaves the loop and begins a .5 mile ascent to the top. Once there I am treated to a great view of Mexico to the south and the national monument to the north. Sitting quietly, I enjoy a hummingbird as it performs its ballet between the various desert flowers. I meet a couple from Minnesota who travel to the park each year to enjoy the desert and "get out of the snow." They speak of their joy of the desert, we share pictures, and soon it is time to consider going back down to the loop.
Hooptedoodle
What is "hooptedoodle," you say? See the sidebar.
1. Marilyn has confirmed that our new cards have the MRV on one side, with her info, and the VW bus on the other, with mine. I quickly commented that this is perfect: “Why when we get ready for our next trip you can throw a card in the air and we'll take the vehicle that lands face up.” You can imagine her response….
2. Some say one of the reasons Organ Pipe is safer now than in the early 2000s is the increased Border Patrol presence. I believe while traveling in the park I encountered more Border Patrol vehicles than all other vehicles. Driving out the following morning, I encountered 11 in my first 15 miles, either heading toward Mexico or parked in washes watching for some activity.
3. I did visit the Sonora Desert Museum in Tucson and found it to be amazing. To anyone nearby, go visit. They have the aviary show every day at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.
4. I must say, to those who write a daily blog, I am amazed. I so enjoy putting my thoughts on paper, yet I'm my own worst critic, adding, deleting, wondering how I ever did this in the typewriter days. Thanks to Marilyn, who is a freelance editor, the finished copy is presentable. Perhaps I shall sometime send out my rough draft—so much for the English major/retired teacher who cannot spell and does not grasp punctuation.
—Doug
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument—organ pipe cactus on bottom right & just to left of center.
The National Park Service updates safety information regularly on the park website. NPS also has information about the steel border fence's impact on safety and environmental preservation in the monument. I urge you to read these articles for more information. Though I felt extremely safe, the final decision is of course up to you. But to entice you, read on about Organ Pipe.
Stage 1 (blue) was in February. Stage 2 (red) began at the end of March.
The namesake of the park is the organ pipe cactus, found only in the Sonoran Desert. Unlike its famous neighbor the saguaro, which grows vertically from one stem, the organ pipe has many curving stems, each less than 20 inches in circumference, that originate from its base and reach heights of up to 20 feet. The story is that an early visitor believed it to resemble the large organ pipes of an old-fashioned pipe organ, hence its name.
Organ Pipe Cactus.
I arrive at the Kris Eggle Visitor Information Center before it opens and join three Border Patrol trucks in the parking lot. The center is named after Ranger Kris Eggle, who in August 2002 was shot and killed by a suspected drug smuggler during a Border Patrol operation.
Once in the center—and I must admit to feeling a bit paranoid—I ask the docent, Jimmy, about danger in the park. He sighs and says, “I wish folks wouldn't say that,” and goes on to say that with the added Border Patrol presence coupled with the new fence, he does not feel any threat. He agrees that there are Mexican citizens who use the park, as they do the rest of our border with Mexico, as a place of entry, but that they have no desire to be seen.
Saguaro Cactus
Jimmy shows me an impressive 3-D map of the park and explains recommended drives and hikes. He invites me to watch an informative 15-minute video that explains life in the park, coupled with some impressive pictures of the area, and meets me after to answer any questions. Yes, it's a slow day at the center, yet he has gone out of his way to ensure to answer all questions. I am soon ready to get outside, find a trail, and check out my new ACL (my third on this knee, but that is another story).
Promising to return the Ajo Mountain Loop pamphlet, I am off to enjoy a 21-mile, mostly one-way, washboard road. Once on the dirt road I set my odometer to zero to allow me to locate each information station and am off to enjoy the route, which I am pleased to say shows me that the MRV can travel off the pavement just like the VW bus.
Saguaro & Ocotillo—note the red blooms on the ocotillo.
Though mostly dirt, it is not an unpleasant road—all you have to do is keep your speed down. Driving alone without the aid of my trusty partner to read and point out things of interest, I soon realize that the road is wide enough that I can pull over anytime and check out the scenery.
.jpeg)
Ocotillo in bloom.
Ocotillo bloom.
Stopping at mile #11, I find an ample-sized parking lot for the Estes Canyon-Bull Pasture trailhead.
MRV at Estes Canyon-Bull Pasture Trailhead along Ajo Mountain Loop drive.
I fill my water bottle; make sure I have sun screen, hiking poles, hat, and first aid kit; lock the MRV; and begin an enjoyable 4.1-mile loop. Now, it is usually Marilyn who lags behind taking pictures, but this time I find myself pulling out the camera (actually, my iPhone) and snapping away. I am rewarded with some cacti and succulents in bloom (flash: the ocotillo is not a cactus but a succulent).
Cholla.
.jpeg)
Burrobush (Ambrosia dumosa). Arizona barrell cactus (?).
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
On this trail I recommend walking poles, for though the trail is well designed and the elevation gain is comfortable, there are many loose rocks just waiting to help you twist an ankle. The trail is easy to follow as it slowly climbs up the ridge. Soon the town of Luke, which sits 6 miles south on the border, begins to take shape, and when I can see to the west, I try to find the MRV. Soon I find myself alternating between trying to guess where the trail is going and stopping to enjoy the impressive vistas.
Where's the MRV? (Hint: it's a white dot.)
At mile 1.7, the trail leaves the loop and begins a .5 mile ascent to the top. Once there I am treated to a great view of Mexico to the south and the national monument to the north. Sitting quietly, I enjoy a hummingbird as it performs its ballet between the various desert flowers. I meet a couple from Minnesota who travel to the park each year to enjoy the desert and "get out of the snow." They speak of their joy of the desert, we share pictures, and soon it is time to consider going back down to the loop.
Before leaving, I decide to call Marilyn and tell her that I'm going to remain overnight in the park. ATT’s cell service is nonexistent in the park, but on top of the ridge, I'm able to connect with her, though I notice I'm not on an ATT tower but one south of the border. I believe I will have to make a call once I get my bill to explain, "Yes, I did call Marilyn; no, I did not leave Arizona.” This has happened before, and they are happy to remove the price of my "international call.”
Heading down, I soon find that while hiking up took some deep breaths, going down seems slower as I attempt to avoid the loose rocks. My new ACL is working well and the time at the gym seems to be paying off, yet I find I am not "rock hopping" as I've done in the past. Surely it has nothing to do with age?
Mountains behind me are in Mexico.
Heading down, I soon find that while hiking up took some deep breaths, going down seems slower as I attempt to avoid the loose rocks. My new ACL is working well and the time at the gym seems to be paying off, yet I find I am not "rock hopping" as I've done in the past. Surely it has nothing to do with age?
Soon I rejoin the loop and enjoy a great walk down the river bed of Estes Canyon, discovering more beauty. Though hiking alone, I am never far from meeting another hiker, all of whom seem desirous of sharing their joy of the area. I stop to take another picture and forget to look where I am going, walking into an ocotillo that leaves two impressive red marks in my knee.
Border Patrol
Back at the trailhead, I air out the MRV, enjoy another bottle of water, and make my way slowly down the dirt road, enjoying the quiet and beauty of the area. The calm is soon interrupted when I cross a wash and encounter a Border Patrol pickup parked back in the river bed, a discovery that once again reminds me how close I am to the border.
After I return the pamphlet to the center, now full of visitors, it is time to check out the campground. I'm greeted by Kim, the “duty volunteer,” who is also from Minnesota, and who cheerfully explains that yes, they do have solar showers, and no, in her 4 years as a volunteer she has never had any problems. She explains that the campground is divided into 3 areas: RVs with generators (note: generators are allowed for only 2 hours in the morning and 2 in the afternoon); sites where no generators are allowed; and tent sites. She also explains that most volunteers are finishing up their visit, as the tourist season officially ends at the end of March, today.
I head to the no-generator part of the campground and find many open sites. After parking, it's off to the solar shower, where I enjoy the fruits of a very sunny day. Free of the dust from the trail, I cook dinner and then enjoy the rest of the evening meeting other campers and planning the next day: my journey to Tucson and the Sonora Desert Museum.
I look forward to returning to Organ Pipe with Marilyn and sharing the beauty with her.
I look forward to returning to Organ Pipe with Marilyn and sharing the beauty with her.
The desert has its own beauty.
Hooptedoodle
What is "hooptedoodle," you say? See the sidebar.
1. Marilyn has confirmed that our new cards have the MRV on one side, with her info, and the VW bus on the other, with mine. I quickly commented that this is perfect: “Why when we get ready for our next trip you can throw a card in the air and we'll take the vehicle that lands face up.” You can imagine her response….
2. Some say one of the reasons Organ Pipe is safer now than in the early 2000s is the increased Border Patrol presence. I believe while traveling in the park I encountered more Border Patrol vehicles than all other vehicles. Driving out the following morning, I encountered 11 in my first 15 miles, either heading toward Mexico or parked in washes watching for some activity.
3. I did visit the Sonora Desert Museum in Tucson and found it to be amazing. To anyone nearby, go visit. They have the aviary show every day at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.
4. I must say, to those who write a daily blog, I am amazed. I so enjoy putting my thoughts on paper, yet I'm my own worst critic, adding, deleting, wondering how I ever did this in the typewriter days. Thanks to Marilyn, who is a freelance editor, the finished copy is presentable. Perhaps I shall sometime send out my rough draft—so much for the English major/retired teacher who cannot spell and does not grasp punctuation.
—Doug
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