2014-4. The Natchez Trace
What a journey. I spent yesterday driving up Louisiana, encountering Old River. I drove for miles on a levi that was the height of Emerald Mound, which I would encounter later that day.
Soon I was at the Old River Lock, which was designed to stop the Mighty Mississippi from going into the Atchafalaya River and thereby entering the Gulf of Mexico approximately 50 miles west of New Orleans rather than about 40 miles south of it.
Markers say this $1-BILLION-dollar (over $7.5 billion in 2014) project was completed in 1964; however, I am sure the Corps of Engineers now realizes that you never complete a project when your aim is to alter nature.
From Old River Lock I drove north along the Mississippi to Vidalia LA. My site in the River View Park and Resort was 100 feet from the Mississippi River with a 180-degree view.
I found myself running to take pictures of it all: Natchez MS across the river, boats pushing multiple barges up and down the river...
...and around 9:00 PM a commercial paddle wheeler heading down toward New Orleans.
Watching the river in the dark, I was amazed to see most of the lights on the large interstate bridge abruptly go out. Then the “aha” moment—they did not want the reflection of the lights on the river to interfere with the captain’s navigation under the bridge.
Arising early the next morning on the Louisiana side of the Mississippi River across from the Mississippi side, it’s time to head north. I must say, last night was one of the best stays I have had on this journey.
So after a great shower and putting the MRV back in driving shape, I am off to explore the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. I have read many accounts of the Trace, a 450-plus-mile-long foot trail from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee. Originally Native American Choctaw and Chicksaw game trails, it got the attention of President Jefferson who decided it should be developed in order to further open up the country.
Soon the Natchez Trace joined existing trails to allow travelers a rather direct route from the South to Washington, D.C. To see it even today is amazing. Merchants and farmers floated their goods and crops in flatboats down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to New Orleans. Once there, they sold their merchandise, and since their flatboats could not go up the river, they sold them as well, for wood. Then they took the Trace home, either by foot or on horseback. A ranger explains to me that it took about 30 days on horseback and 6 weeks by foot. He adds that because of the high incidence of crime, travelers went up the Trace in groups of 20 or more.
Hooptedoodle (definition in side bar)
1) I originally had this ready for my industrious editor at 9:00 AM. Then I found a visitor information center and many pamphlets. Two hours later, after correcting a few historical facts, I hope it is correct. I am amazed how conjecture can get in the way of truth.
2) Sometimes you are rewarded when merely meandering. While traveling the Trace I realized I needed to eat breakfast, so I took a turn toward Port Gibson. Driving down through town, I saw a small sign that said “Mississippi Blues Trail” and made a left turn.
Two corners later was an historical marker recognizing the African American Rabbit Foot Minstrels. The "Foots,” as they were known, were traveling minstrels who began to spread the blues across the south. A better picture of the other side of the marker is at http://www.msbluestrail.org/ blues-trail-markers/rabbit-foot-minstrels.
Across the street was another historical marker, this one commemorating an 1864 Civil War battle in which the Union prevailed over the South, just before the battle of Vicksburg.
The Atchafalaya River.
The MRV at Old River Lock on the Achafalaya River in Mississippi.
Markers say this $1-BILLION-dollar (over $7.5 billion in 2014) project was completed in 1964; however, I am sure the Corps of Engineers now realizes that you never complete a project when your aim is to alter nature.
Old River Lock.
Cranberry Bogs.
A forlorn homestead.
From Old River Lock I drove north along the Mississippi to Vidalia LA. My site in the River View Park and Resort was 100 feet from the Mississippi River with a 180-degree view.
Camped in Vidalia LA across the Mississippi River from Natchez MS.
I found myself running to take pictures of it all: Natchez MS across the river, boats pushing multiple barges up and down the river...
Barges on the Mississippi River.
...and around 9:00 PM a commercial paddle wheeler heading down toward New Orleans.
Boats on the Mississippi.
Watching the river in the dark, I was amazed to see most of the lights on the large interstate bridge abruptly go out. Then the “aha” moment—they did not want the reflection of the lights on the river to interfere with the captain’s navigation under the bridge.
Imagine how much darker it is when the lights on the bridge go out when boats go under the bridge.
Crossing the Mississippi from Vidalia LA to Natchez MS.
So after a great shower and putting the MRV back in driving shape, I am off to explore the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail. I have read many accounts of the Trace, a 450-plus-mile-long foot trail from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee. Originally Native American Choctaw and Chicksaw game trails, it got the attention of President Jefferson who decided it should be developed in order to further open up the country.
Stands grew up along the Natchez Road, about 5 miles apart, where travelers might find some protection—the Trace could be dangerous, even deadly—and a small meal.
Soon the Natchez Trace joined existing trails to allow travelers a rather direct route from the South to Washington, D.C. To see it even today is amazing. Merchants and farmers floated their goods and crops in flatboats down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to New Orleans. Once there, they sold their merchandise, and since their flatboats could not go up the river, they sold them as well, for wood. Then they took the Trace home, either by foot or on horseback. A ranger explains to me that it took about 30 days on horseback and 6 weeks by foot. He adds that because of the high incidence of crime, travelers went up the Trace in groups of 20 or more.
The only purpose of the meandering two-way Natchez Trace Parkway seems to be to allow travelers to explore the Trace. Near the town of Washington, I come to a sign for Elizabeth Female Academy. From my readings it was the first all-female college in Mississippi and according to some the US. It was begun in 1818 and continued until the Mississippi capital moved to Jackson, finally closing in 1845.
An historical marker next to the sign indicates that John James Audubon was on the faculty of Elizabeth Female College.
It is interesting to note that in September 1809, Captain Meriwether Lewis, while traveling the Trace to visit President Jefferson, lost his life near present-day Memphis, Tennessee.
Back on the road and enjoying the scenic drive, I come to a sign for Emerald Mound.
Lone wall from Elizabeth Female Academy.
An historical marker next to the sign indicates that John James Audubon was on the faculty of Elizabeth Female College.
It is interesting to note that in September 1809, Captain Meriwether Lewis, while traveling the Trace to visit President Jefferson, lost his life near present-day Memphis, Tennessee.
Back on the road and enjoying the scenic drive, I come to a sign for Emerald Mound.
Parked at Emerald Mound on the Natchez Trace. The levi road I followed along the Mississippi was as high as Emerald Mound.
I walk from the parking lot to a part of the Trace. To my amazement, the trail is over 10 feet below the surrounding area.
By the late 1820s, steamboats were able to navigate up the Mississippi, and travel on the Natchez Trace soon lessened.
According to the literature, Emerald Mound is the second largest temple mound in the US, after the Monks Mound in Illinois. Emerald Mound was built between 1200 and 1700 by the Mississippians, ancestors to the Natchez Indians. Two smaller or secondary mounds sit atop the main mound, adding 25 feet to the overall height. History has it that in the 1540s, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto visited Emerald Mound and his soldiers rode their horses to the top. So much for repaying hospitality.
Having recently visited Machu Picchu, I admit that this mound is not as spectacular; however, considering the size of the area and the amount of dirt that had to be moved by this stone age population, I found it rather impressive. Much of the original Emerald Mound has eroded over time, but the existing mound (which dwarfs the MRV) and the temple on top still remain. On top of the temple mound, the view is rather grand, looking across the grassy area toward what appear to be the remains of another mound.
I was confused as to the origin of the name "Emerald Mound" until I once again read the literature. It seems it is named after the Emerald Plantation which “owned” the land until the Civil War.
Part of Natchez Trace, 10 feet below surrounding area.
By the late 1820s, steamboats were able to navigate up the Mississippi, and travel on the Natchez Trace soon lessened.
Emerald Mound, 35 feet high & covering 8 acres.
According to the literature, Emerald Mound is the second largest temple mound in the US, after the Monks Mound in Illinois. Emerald Mound was built between 1200 and 1700 by the Mississippians, ancestors to the Natchez Indians. Two smaller or secondary mounds sit atop the main mound, adding 25 feet to the overall height. History has it that in the 1540s, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto visited Emerald Mound and his soldiers rode their horses to the top. So much for repaying hospitality.
Looking down from Emerald Mound.
Having recently visited Machu Picchu, I admit that this mound is not as spectacular; however, considering the size of the area and the amount of dirt that had to be moved by this stone age population, I found it rather impressive. Much of the original Emerald Mound has eroded over time, but the existing mound (which dwarfs the MRV) and the temple on top still remain. On top of the temple mound, the view is rather grand, looking across the grassy area toward what appear to be the remains of another mound.
Note stairway to go down.
I was confused as to the origin of the name "Emerald Mound" until I once again read the literature. It seems it is named after the Emerald Plantation which “owned” the land until the Civil War.
It is only 9:00 AM, but time to continue up the Natchez Trace Parkway. This has truly been an amazing adventure, and I look forward to 9 days more until I rendezvous with Marilyn in Florida.
—Doug
—Doug
1st stages of our counterclockwise trip around the country. Blue: Seattle WA-Bodega Bay CA. Red: Bodega Bay-Visalia (home). Green: Visalia-Tucson AZ. Purple: Tucson-Meridian MS.
Hooptedoodle (definition in side bar)
1) I originally had this ready for my industrious editor at 9:00 AM. Then I found a visitor information center and many pamphlets. Two hours later, after correcting a few historical facts, I hope it is correct. I am amazed how conjecture can get in the way of truth.
2) Sometimes you are rewarded when merely meandering. While traveling the Trace I realized I needed to eat breakfast, so I took a turn toward Port Gibson. Driving down through town, I saw a small sign that said “Mississippi Blues Trail” and made a left turn.
Across the street was another historical marker, this one commemorating an 1864 Civil War battle in which the Union prevailed over the South, just before the battle of Vicksburg.
All of the "Foots" were great R&B stars in their own right. Rufus Thomas was a great singer - His big hit in 1963 was "Walking the Dog." He also gave us his daughter Carla Thomas, who did some great duets with Otis Redding "Tramp" was one of them.
ReplyDeleteThank you, George, for more info on the Foots.
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